- Oakland has long sat in the shadow of its immediate neighbour San Francisco
- But with new flight links from the UK, it is increasingly a destination in itself
- Highlights include the Jack London District, with its waterfront restaurants
They loom like gigantic white giraffes, casting shadows across the Bay. Paddling closer in my kayak, I lean back to gaze up at the steely beasts. In the distance, the San Francisco skyline shimmers in the mid-morning haze.